k***@gmail.com
2013-08-16 22:27:07 UTC
Wandered onto this thread. Thanks for the info. Was able to drill a hole at 2" from top and 4" from back and fit the CO2 line through it without a problem. Its always good to drill through the 1/16" metal first and probe to double check there are no freon lines behind there.
Thanks for the post.
Thanks for the post.
Ok, this is a painful post... I'm ready for all the "I told you so",
you're a nit wit, etc. replies.
I've been feeling mighty stupid but I figured if this saved anyone the
same trouble, it is worth posting.
A couple weeks ago, I bought a Sanyo SR-4910M refrigerator from Best
Buy. It is a 4.9cu.Ft. mini fridge that is refrigerator only. 2 Cornie
kegs fit perfect and there is room on the door for misc. (a dozen
bottles, hops, yeasts, etc.) Sears has one that looks like an exact
match and I've seen a few others that look the same except for the
placement of the temp. controller inside the box.
Before I bought it, I did a million searches online to find info and
found one (that I mysteriously can't find now...) that showed where the
side coils were SUPPOSED to be. It said the coils ended 6" from the top.
I finally got around to cutting the hole for the CO2 lines and measured
4" down and about 6" in from the back. I started a 1/8" pilot hole and
I'll be goddammed... hisssssssss I drilled right into the coil. So I
got the dremel and cut out a rectangle and the coils go up to about 3.5"
from the top. I spent the rest of the day getting pale and sick.
SWMBO comes home, sees me and asks what's wrong. I explain... she
says,"you were just unlucky. Chalk it up to experience and go get
another one." Huh? Who is that who just came in my house?
So, I have a very expensive "learning device". So, to the meat of the
post...
I have made several cuts to find coils and the "safe" places I've found...
The plastic top comes off with 3 screws on the back and 4 under the
door. I have made a big cut in the top and have come to the conclusion
that there are no coils on the top. I didn't cut any closer than 4" to
the edge (figuring a drip tray would need to be in front of any tower),
so I can't vouch for anything betweent he edge and 4" in on the top.
Gas in and liquid out lines can safely go in the top.
On the sides, anywhere along the top edge no lower than 3" from the top
is safe for gas in (or liq. out) lines. What I did was to cut a hole
with my dremel tool, 1.75"-3" from the top, and 3"-5" from the back.
Then, on the inside, I used a 1.25" hole saw and cut through the inner
plastic lining angled up right where the shell curves to form the top.
I used a knife to cut out the insulation. The gas lines go in here. I
will be putting in a tower on the top eventually.
So, here is verification for those of you who thought I was an idiot.
But, like I said somewhere up there, if I can save anyone my troubles...
this is worth every keystroke. If anyone has any other q's about this
box, ask, email or post on rcb. I'm saving the damaged one with the
intent of putting on some fittings and recharging it for a lager
box/fermenter.
Ed
you're a nit wit, etc. replies.
I've been feeling mighty stupid but I figured if this saved anyone the
same trouble, it is worth posting.
A couple weeks ago, I bought a Sanyo SR-4910M refrigerator from Best
Buy. It is a 4.9cu.Ft. mini fridge that is refrigerator only. 2 Cornie
kegs fit perfect and there is room on the door for misc. (a dozen
bottles, hops, yeasts, etc.) Sears has one that looks like an exact
match and I've seen a few others that look the same except for the
placement of the temp. controller inside the box.
Before I bought it, I did a million searches online to find info and
found one (that I mysteriously can't find now...) that showed where the
side coils were SUPPOSED to be. It said the coils ended 6" from the top.
I finally got around to cutting the hole for the CO2 lines and measured
4" down and about 6" in from the back. I started a 1/8" pilot hole and
I'll be goddammed... hisssssssss I drilled right into the coil. So I
got the dremel and cut out a rectangle and the coils go up to about 3.5"
from the top. I spent the rest of the day getting pale and sick.
SWMBO comes home, sees me and asks what's wrong. I explain... she
says,"you were just unlucky. Chalk it up to experience and go get
another one." Huh? Who is that who just came in my house?
So, I have a very expensive "learning device". So, to the meat of the
post...
I have made several cuts to find coils and the "safe" places I've found...
The plastic top comes off with 3 screws on the back and 4 under the
door. I have made a big cut in the top and have come to the conclusion
that there are no coils on the top. I didn't cut any closer than 4" to
the edge (figuring a drip tray would need to be in front of any tower),
so I can't vouch for anything betweent he edge and 4" in on the top.
Gas in and liquid out lines can safely go in the top.
On the sides, anywhere along the top edge no lower than 3" from the top
is safe for gas in (or liq. out) lines. What I did was to cut a hole
with my dremel tool, 1.75"-3" from the top, and 3"-5" from the back.
Then, on the inside, I used a 1.25" hole saw and cut through the inner
plastic lining angled up right where the shell curves to form the top.
I used a knife to cut out the insulation. The gas lines go in here. I
will be putting in a tower on the top eventually.
So, here is verification for those of you who thought I was an idiot.
But, like I said somewhere up there, if I can save anyone my troubles...
this is worth every keystroke. If anyone has any other q's about this
box, ask, email or post on rcb. I'm saving the damaged one with the
intent of putting on some fittings and recharging it for a lager
box/fermenter.
Ed