Post by Dan LogcherPost by Steve BPost by Dan LogcherPost by Steve BPost by Tony VPost by Steve BI got three Cornies for free. They are Coca-Cola, hence pin types.
They
are a little difficult to operate for me with old hands. Is it worth it to
replace them with ball types?
If you mean replacing the pin lock fittings on the keg with ball lock
fittings, then no, you can't as the threads are different.
Post by Steve BWhat kind do you have, and if you have pins,
are they very tough to work with?
Most people get whatever is most readily available in their area. Note
that the pin lock kegs and fitting are slightly taller than the ball
lock kegs - an issue if height is a problem. FWIW, I'm a big fan of
stainless steel disconnects - more expensive but are a pleasure to use.
Tony
http://home.comcast.net/~verhulst/RIMS
I have a few e mails in to the suppliers, northern brewers one of them,
that has an "adapter" post available. It would be a very simple matter
to have these made by a company that would sell a lot of them. They're
$10 each, and right now, I'd buy six if I could find them. The pins are
just too hard to use, but I may have to live with them for now.
You need the deep socket pin-lock fitting tool and then its no big deal.
Shop around, but here's one
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/pin-lock-ratchet-socket.html
--
Dan
I used a common wrench. What I need is the adapter posts that will make
a pin keg use a ball connector. I think they're made, just have to find
them. I have some e mails out to suppliers, thought some here may be
knowledgeable.
BTW, only one keg had tight fittings, the others came off easily with the
wrench. On the hard one, I used the wrench and a rubber mallet, and it
loosened on the first strike. Just get it all lined up before hitting.
I have a lot of machine working stuff, and I can slot a regular deep
socket rather than pay the price they want for one socket. Sockets are
fifty cents apiec at my local hock shop.
You may only need ball-lock posts, as some pin-lock kegs can be converted to
ball-lock very easily. Are they tall and thin, or short and fat? Is there a
brand name on the side?
--
Dan
The posts are made into the top of the can. The screw on posts is what I'm
talking about. I want to use all ball type connectors to get away from the
pin types because it seems harder to operate the pin types. I did go out
last evening, and take everything completely apart, including the poppett,
because one would not work at all, and it seems they have some residual
syrup in them from their soda days. Maybe they would be okay if I just took
everything off, cleaned it thoroughly in hot water, put in new o rings and
gaskets. Just the way you kind of have to get in there with your fingertips
that makes it hard sometimes because of a thumb I broke a long time ago, and
wrist problems from too many years of hard use, and hands the same. The set
of ball fasteners I have on one of the Cornies works soooo much easier.
They are made by Hansen Mfg. Co, Cleveland Ohio. Part # 4723C on the two
post, and 4723C on the three post. One of the three tanks has P before the
part number, but just on one post, not both. The thread outside diameter is
close to 9/16", and the top of the post is pretty close to 9/16, too. They
are 1 1/8" all, so I'd call that fat in relationship to some I have seen
that are taller and tapered.
If I could get a post that looks like mine, but is a ball type, might I
ass-u-me that it would be a "C" post? Keg Connection advertises retrofitted
Cornies that use ball type valves, and that they have been converted from
pin types. Must be some obvious reason or preference for ball type
fasteners.
I made right at $250 today at my yard sale, so am ready to send off for some
"stuff", and get brewing and kegging.
From what I have provided, what do you think I need to order? Apparently
Keg Connection is switching the post connectors, and cleaning and rehabbing
Cornies, and selling them. The valves must be made somewhere.
I'll google Hansen and see what they say.
Thanks. I'm a newbie, and know I may ask some basic questions, but I would
rather do that than send stuff back and forth, and just get things screwed
up.
BTW, I did brew a batch of porter, which I bottled. It came out nice, I do
have to say. But after reading of single fermenting, then kegging, and the
simplicity of it all over bottling, and after snagging keg refrigerator with
dispensing head for $10, I just have to go with kegging.
I'm ready to start in earnest now the temps here have gone down to the point
where I can comfortably brew in my man cave seagoing containers.
This stuff isn't rocket science, but there IS a lot to it.
This keg post thing will be my last major hurdle.
Steve